JOSIE NATORI, née Almeda Cruz, once had her eyes set on the stage, to be a successful concert pianist. Fate took her to a different field, which led to her becoming one of New York’s most successful bankers. Even that was not enough, and Ms. Natori, in the 1970s, decided to clothe the world’s wealthy during their most private moments through her line of luxury loungewear.
At a show at the Grand Hyatt’s Garden Pavilion on Nov. 14, Ms. Natori “relaunched” twice: her Fall/Winter 2024 line had been launched in New York back in February (the show merely signaled the items’ availability in stores), but more importantly, the show is a reimagining of her 1984 “Natori State of Mind” campaign.
In the Philippines, Natori is carried in Rustan’s department stores.
The show was held in a lavish set done up in red, with a dragon as the backdrop. It opened with a performance, dancers clothed in Natori sarongs. What we saw on the runway included luxurious batik-like patterns with jewel tones, dragons on pajama sets, prints of peonies on white silk, and rich red caftans.
A second part, this time opened by a dance with lamps, showed more abstract Impressionist prints on pastel pinks, on items like shirtdresses and soft suits. A black skirt and sweater set with prints of blue hydrangeas evoked midnight, and for this line, blues were everywhere, looking like shadows: especially enviable was a black pajama set with a robe of black with white embroidery.
Giant opaque fans opened the third part of the show, showing pieces embroidered in white and gold. The motif was seen on a mantilla, a bomber jacket, a belted wrap dress, and a rich velvet lounge suit. We saw sequined pieces, even presented as a corset, a shift; the metallic theme was carried over to a kaftan embroidered with a gold dragon, as well as another dragon-themed piece, this time a kimono and slip set. I don’t know how she does it, but the cling of the silk suggested a life that inspires deep envy.
The show ended with a dance with gossamer fans (like moth wings), and an invitation for the audience to shop, with racks brought out on the runway. The easy audience took the invitation, with women flocking onstage and Ms. Natori herself recommending pieces.
“It’s very much exotic,” she said in an interview, expressing that the scrolls (what she calls the luxurious batik-like patterns) and the dragons, were a part of the brand identity. “That’s iconic to Natori.” We noted her renewed energy, her slim figure in a sleek silver suit. “What do you mean? I’m 77.”
“I keep working. I work 24/7.”
Aside from it being a dragon year in the Chinese Zodiac, Ms. Natori spoke about her use of dragons (a previous collection showed them off in bone white). “It says very strongly of strength. When you think about Natori, you think dragons. Maybe it’s the Dragon Lady. I don’t know. But it’s the idea of strength, and power, and spirit.”
In some superstitions, her age, 77, would be doubly lucky. She’s not slowing down, either way: “There’s an expression: ‘I’ll die with my boots on’.” — Joseph L. Garcia
